Bra Fitting Problems & How to Solve Them (Part 1)

Symptom: The Bra cups pucker.
Reason: Your cup size is too large
Solution: Go down one cup size (e.g.: from a D cup to a C cup in the same band size) or tighten your bra straps.

Symptom: Breasts are "bulging" out over the top of the bra.
Reason: Cup size is either too small or cut too low for the size of your breasts.
Solution: Try going up a cup size (e.g.: from a B cup to a C cup) or choose a bra style that has more fabric in the cup for example, a full coverage cup rather than a demi cup.

Symptom: One cup fits fine - the other cup puckers.
Reason: One breast is larger than the other (very common).
Solution: Almost all women have one breast larger than the other. Sometimes the difference is noticeable; most often it's not. If your difference is significant, you have several choices. You can purchase a bra with stretch fabric in the cup. The size difference will then not be noticeable. You can also try a bra with fiberfill, light padding or a molded cup bra that will hide the size difference. Further, try adjusting the straps so that the larger breast cup is looser than the smaller breast cup. And, you can purchase a padded bra with removable "cookies," and take the cookie out of the side with the larger breast.

Symptom: Rashes and redness under breasts.
Reason: Your cup is too small, your underwire is not in the breast crease, and your bra does not give enough support to lift your breasts off your ribcage. Consequently, your breast skin is overlapping and rubbing on your ribcage skin and irritation is occurring.
Solution: Increase your cup size until you find the right underwire that fits within your breast crease comfortably. Choose a bra that has a band on the bottom. This band will give additional support and insure your breast tissue does not come in contact with your ribcage skin. Select a bra with a supportive cup design such as 2 to 3 section cups, contains support panels at the bottom, along the sides and possibly all the way around your breast. Finally, consider a wire-free bra with a band and good supporting cup design.

Symptom: Correct size, but breast tissue near underarm is falling out.
Reason: You have the wrong style bra.
Solution: Triangle bra styles and other skimpy bras are probably not for you. Such styles are more for women who don't need much bra support. Remember, not all bra styles will work on your figure - even if they come in your size.

Symptom: Some bras just don't look right.
Reason: Not all bras do all things well. A full cup bra may look like it's strangling you. A demi cup may look too skimpy. Wide set bra straps might make your cups gap, padding may give you lumps and bumps. No one can wear all bra styles.
Solution: Assess your figure and see what category you fall into: petite, full figure, plus size, etc. Then, find the manufacturers that cater to your figure type and work with their styles. Like your favorite shoe brands and jeans brands, you should also find your favorite lingerie brands.

Symptom: Several Bra Sizes fit me.
Reason: You have different bra sizes, because different manufacturers make your bras. Your breast size can change around your period causing you to need a different size bra. You do not have clear and stringent bra fitting requirements for yourself.
Solution: Your bra size should be the same among one manufacturer's many styles. Many women buy a bra style they like in two sizes - one size for regular days, and one size for period days. This is a great idea if you have significant breast fluctuation. Don't suffer during your 7 days by stuffing yourself into a bra that's temporarily too small. You also need to fully understand what a good fitting bra looks like on you and not compromise. If a bra's fit, comfort and/or shape is not right, don't buy it.

Symptom: Underwires pop out of bra.
Reason: Your band size is probably too large. If your band is moving around your body, this friction wears down the casing covering of your underwire and ultimately causes a hole for the wire to pop out. In a really bad fit, this hole can occur within a matter of hours. The fabric sewn over underwires inside a bra, called channeling, is sometimes made of cotton. Washing in hot water can shrink the channeling and force the underwire to pop out. The manufacturer may not have sewn enough stitches to close the underwire channel and the underwire has been able to pop out.
Solution: Try a smaller band size and a larger cup size (e.g. go from a 42D to a 40DD) and see if your bra stays in place better. Never wash your lingerie in hot water or put in a dryer. If your wire popped out due to a sewing error, it can be fixed with an alteration.

Symptom: Underwire is uncomfortable and poking under the arm.
Reason: The cup size is too small and places the underwire right on the tender breast tissue and too far forward on the body. The style of the bra is not providing a wide enough cup to support your breast, or the design of the bra is placing the cups too close together.
Solution: Try going up a cup size and see if the underwire fits more comfortably (e.g.: 36C to a 36D). Or try a different style bra with fuller cup coverage and/or a larger center panel in front. A large-breasted woman can still experience poking on the sides, even in a bra that is the correct size. Therefore, she should look for a bra that has side support panels. These panels will push your breast tissue towards the front and away from under your arms. Also, if this problem is occurring with a minimizer, you should probably stop wearing a minimizer. A minimizer works by flattening your breasts and moving the tissue more under your arms and up your chest. Too much tissue under the arms will get in the way of comfortable movement.

Symptom: Underwire is poking the armpit.
Reason: You are probably petite in build, and/or have a short torso, or have breasts that are high-set on your ribcage. Petite women have this problem because average bras are not made for women with short torsos. Therefore, the underwire is too tall and pokes into their armpit.
Solution: Consider a demi style bra, or a bra style with less cup coverage and thus shorter underwires. This shorter underwire should reduce poking. Also, consider petite bras. HerRoom offers a great selection of petite bras. They are designed to have closer cups, shorter wires, and shorter bra straps.

Symptom: Underwires tip away from body between the breasts.
Reason: Your bra cups are not deep enough and/or the center panel is too narrow at its bottom. The underwire is not sitting in your "breast crease" and therefore is not laying flat against your chest. Your bra may also be a minimizer.
Solution: Try on a larger cup size or select a bra with a different shaped center panel. Your breasts may also be unusually wide and not rest in underwires well. Consider wearing a wire-free bra, HerRoom has a large assortment. Minimizer underwire bras work by compressing breast tissue. One side effect is that sometimes the center wires tip outwards. Try another minimizer or forgo a minimizer all together.

(From http://www.herroom.com, copyright Andra Group, LP)

Bra Fitting Problems & How to Solve Them (Part 2)

Symptom: Can't find an underwire that fits.
Reason: Your breast shape may not be suited for underwires. Some women have breast tissue that extends around their chest and under their arms. An underwire is going to press into breast tissue and feel very uncomfortable.
Solution: There are many wire-free bras on the market now. Forego an underwire and find comfort in a wire-free bra.

Symptom: Breasts are too big.
Reason: No problem. You just haven't found the right style bra. Wearing the wrong style bra that does not have proper support and does not elevate your breasts to their proper position will make you look heavier and bigger than you are.
Solution Full figured women have way more options today. Several brands at HerRoom cater to the full figured woman. Look at Lunaire, Freya, Elila, Goddess and Fantasie bras. All have great support and great fit for the full-figured woman.

Symptom: Same bra size as friend, yet can't wear the same bras.
Reason: Breasts are unique. Though two women may measure to the same bra size, one's breasts may be higher-set on their ribcage, spaced farther apart, or could have a wider back.
Solution: Understand your unique shape variations and learn what bra styles and bra features work best for you.

Symptom: Sagging Breasts.
Reason: Your bra does not have enough support, the cup fabric is too stretchy and flimsy for your breasts, or your band size is too large. You may also have heavy breasts that are becoming pendulous due to lack of proper support.
Solution: The apex of your breasts should fall half way between your elbow and shoulder. To get there, you need a bra with good support. Features of great supporting bras include a 3-section cup, support panels built into the cup, a band all the way around the bottom of the bra, and 3 or more hooks in the back. Avoid single layer molded cup bras. Going down a band size and up a cup size may also solve this problem (e.g. 38C to a 36D).

Symptom: Stretch marks are visible running up and down the breasts.
Reason: Your breast tissue is breaking down because you are not wearing a bra, or are wearing a non-supporting bra. Breakdown of the breast tissue is causing your breasts to sag, creating stretch marks. This problem can occur on small- breasted women as well.
Solution: Wear a well-constructed, supportive bra during the day and a firm sports bra for exercising. These stretch marks will never go away, but wearing supportive bras will reduce or eliminate further damage.

Symptom: Center bra panel does not rest on your sternum.
Reason: Cup size is too small, your bra is a minimizer or a soft cup style, or you're not wearing your bra correctly.
Solution: Re-arrange your breast tissue in the cup and see if the fit improves. If this doesn't solve the problem, try on the bra in the next larger cup size (e.g. go from a 42D to a 42DD). If your bra is wire-free and you're large breasted, the center panel will probably not touch. This is okay. Minimizer bra styles also tend to push away from the sternum. If you're large breasted and your breasts are naturally close together, your center panel will probably not touch your sternum. Again, this is all right.

Symptom: Center bra panel has a gap.
Reason: Style of bra does not work with your figure.
Solution: Try a different style bra or have the bra altered.

Symptom: Bra rides up in back.
Reason: Your band size is too large.
Solution: Try hooking your bra on a tighter setting and loosening the straps. If this doesn't work, your band size is too big and you need to buy a smaller band size (e.g.: from a 36C to a 34D). If your cups fit fine, in order to keep the same cup size when you go down on the band size, you must go up a cup size as our example shows.

Symptom: Bra rides up in back and my bra size is correct.
Reason: Your torso does not get narrower at the waist and in fact might be wider, and /or your breasts are large and heavy. Both these body characteristics predispose your bra back to riding up.
Solution: Make sure your bra back has the leotard back strap styling, 4-7 hook back closure, and wide elastic sewn along the bottom edge. Also, when you put on your bra, make sure your bra back is pulled down under your back bones - this will also help anchor your bra.

Symptom: Bra is uncomfortable - cutting and pinching with every movement.
Reason: Your bra is hooked too tightly, your band size is too small, or the sides of your bra are too narrow for your figure type.
Solution: Try hooking your bra on a looser setting or adding a back extender accessory. It may also be that the bra style is inappropriate for your figure. Consider a style with wider sides and a three-hook closure in back.

Symptom: Shoulder Straps keep falling off shoulders.
Reason: If tightening the strap is not working, the problem could be that your cup size is too big. You're not filling out the top of your cup and this is causing your straps to slide down your shoulders. You are using bra extenders which are basically causing the same problem as a band being too big. When putting on your bra, you are not making certain your bra's back is pulled down and under your shoulder blades. Your band may not be tight enough or a size too large and the straps in the back are thus too close to the edge of your shoulders. The bra style could also be the problem -wide-set straps are very popular. If you have small or sloping shoulders, this style is not for you.
Solution: Here are several solutions. Try your bra style in a smaller cup size or select a different style bra. Try wearing your bra on the tightest back hooks - and make sure you have pulled the bra down in back so that it is level with your bra front. Racer-back bras and leotard back bras are great solutions for falling straps. If you're using bra extenders, remove them and buy the bra in a larger band size and one cup size smaller to maintain the same cup fit. Go down a band size and up a cup size and see if your bra fits better. There are also accessories that help to keep your straps in place. Visit our accessory department to see a selection.

Symptom: Shoulder Straps dig into shoulders.
Reason: Your bra is not giving you enough support, so your shoulder straps are being forced to do too much work, or your straps are too tight or too narrow. Straps should carry no more than 10% of the breast's weight.
Solution: If you drop your shoulder straps off your shoulders, your bra should stay in place. If this is not the case, your band size is too large and you should go down a band size and up a cup size - if your cups fit correctly (e.g. from a 42D to a 40DD or 40E). Bra straps should never create dents in your shoulders; straps should carry only minimal breast weight. A wider bra strap is also a good idea for breast sizes larger than a D cup.

(From http://www.herroom.com, copyright Andra Group, LP)

Brenda Coulter has sold bras for a dozen years. The owner of Intimate Designs in Independence is obsessed with finding the right fit for women, which is why she carries sizes rarely found elsewhere, especially in larger cup sizes.

Most of the women who walk into her shop walk out in a new bra of an entirely different size because they'd been wearing the wrong one, she says. Her fitting process is personalized and takes up to 45 minutes.

Her advice:

* Measure around your rib cage with a tape measure. Coulter adds two to four inches to the measurement for a starting point for the band size.
* When the bra is on, make sure the back strap is level with the front. It should run evenly around your body and not ride up in the back. If you're constantly tugging the back strap down, you need to go down at least one band size.
* On an underwire bra, make sure the wire goes completely around the bust, including around the sides under the arms. There shouldn't be anything popping out of the cups underneath the arms; if there is, the cup is too small. The wires in the middle of the bra in front should lie flat against your chest. If they stick out, the cup is too small.
* Move around in the bra. Swing your arms around and over your head. The bra, and everything inside it, should stay firmly in place.
* Check your bra size at least every six months or so. Breast size changes as you gain or lose weight, get older, have babies, go through menopause.

Your Bra Problems—Solved!

Suze Yalof Schwartz shares tricks she learned from 20-year veteran bra-fit expert, Eyvette Manigault of Town Shop in New York City. (Check out townshop.com for more fitting Dos and Don’ts!)

Problem: My bra gapes at the top.

Suze: “Anything from medication to menstruation can affect the size of your bust. Update your bra wardrobe every year, and to ensure a perfect fit for your body, bend forward to fill cups when trying on.”

Problem: I can’t find my size!

Suze: “Always make sure your bra strap is centered in back. If the strap rides up, you will sag!”

Problem: My strapless bra falls down.

Suze: “Always buy a strapless one size bigger in the cup and one size smaller in the back for a bust that will look shapely and supported.”

Problem: I need some cleavage!

Suze: “Avoid racer-back bras or anything with too much stretch—both of which will flatten out your bust. Instead try a molded cup with padding all over to create the illusion of a larger bust.”

Another: I need some cleavage!

Suze: “Don’t ever put a molded-cup bra in the dryer—the heat will destroy its shape forever.”

Problem: I lost weight but now I’m sagging.

Suze: “Don’t forget to take weight loss into account. If the cup is gaping, time to throw it out. Get fitted for a new and sexy bra with full coverage.”

Problem: I spill over the tops of my bras.

Suze: “A too-small bra creates the effect of a double bust. Instead try a sexy lace bra with a cross seam that will keep the cup intact and support your breast.”

Another: I spill over the tops of my bras.

Suze: “For a fuller bust, stick to nylon-Lycra—as opposed to cotton-Lycra. It’s more durable and keeps its shape longer.”

Problem: Help! I’ve got under spillage.

Suze: “If your bra’s cup size is too small, you will get VBL (visible bra lines) under the bust. Don’t do it! Go for a larger cup size and a larger back size.”

Problem: I’ve got side spillage.

Suze: “Don’t go for cleavage at the risk of spillage. Do go for a full-cup bra (not demi) that gives you cleavage and coverage.”

Another: I’ve got side spillage.

Suze: “Don’t forget that one breast is often bigger than the other. Be sure to fit the bra to your larger breast.”